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Take a look at some of the most common questions about Floorigami installation and more.

What are the dos & don'ts of installing Floorigami?

Go for it! 

  • Make sure your floor is clean, flat and dry before installing 
  • Start your install in the middle of the room
  • Don't worry about the peel and stick backing leaving any residue on hard surface floors below
  • Vacuum after you finish installing (no, the planks won’t come up!)
  • Keep a few extra left over planks on hand in case you need to replace a planks
  • Use Replacement Stickers to add a little extra “stick” to cut pieces or after peeling up and cleaning a plank
  • Use Easy Edge to give your Floorigami rug a finished look

Hold up...

  • Floorigami cannot be installed over carpet or pad
  • Cut Floorigami from the front (fuzzy side) of the plank 
  • Don't submerge planks in water (Floorigami prefers showers over baths!)
  • Avoid installing Floorigami on stairs (we know, it's tempting!)

Should I start my installation in the corner or center of my room?

While starting your installing in the corner of your room feels like the natural place to start, but the Floorigami experts at Shaw Floors have tested this process in small spaces, large spaces and everything in between, and we’ve found starting in the corner leaves more room for error when you reach the end of your install. Planks can become unevenly spaced, and sometimes you’re left with a weird gap along a wall. We want to make sure your new Floorigami floor is picture perfect, so we’ve worked hard to refine our instructions to do just that. Starting in the center allows you to first measure your space so you don’t end up cutting every plank at the end of your room to fit. Starting in the center and installing half of the room first provides you with multiple alignment points at all times, to ensure those lines are straight. Our biggest tip here is to lay out your entire Floorigami floor first, whether that’s a wall-to-wall room or an area rug, before you start to peel and stick.


Go for it! 

  • Make sure your floor is clean, flat and dry before installing 
  • Start your install in the middle of the room
  • Don't worry about the peel and stick backing leaving any residue on hard surface floors below
  • Vacuum after you finish installing (no, the planks won’t come up!)
  • Keep a few extra left over planks on hand in case you need to replace a planks
  • Use Replacement Stickers to add a little extra “stick” to cut pieces or after peeling up and cleaning a plank
  • Use Easy Edge to give your Floorigami rug a finished look

Hold up...

  • Floorigami cannot be installed over carpet or pad
  • Cut Floorigami from the front (fuzzy side) of the plank 
  • Don't submerge planks in water (Floorigami prefers showers over baths!)
  • Avoid installing Floorigami on stairs (we know, it's tempting!)

While starting your installing in the corner of your room feels like the natural place to start, but the Floorigami experts at Shaw Floors have tested this process in small spaces, large spaces and everything in between, and we’ve found starting in the corner leaves more room for error when you reach the end of your install. Planks can become unevenly spaced, and sometimes you’re left with a weird gap along a wall. We want to make sure your new Floorigami floor is picture perfect, so we’ve worked hard to refine our instructions to do just that. Starting in the center allows you to first measure your space so you don’t end up cutting every plank at the end of your room to fit. Starting in the center and installing half of the room first provides you with multiple alignment points at all times, to ensure those lines are straight. Our biggest tip here is to lay out your entire Floorigami floor first, whether that’s a wall-to-wall room or an area rug, before you start to peel and stick.


What if I have trouble sticking the planks to my floor?

UNFINISHED WOOD SUBFLOOR

Every subfloor is unique. Some make it easy for Floorigami planks to stick and some make it more difficult. It depends on the age of the subfloor, the pad that was under the carpet and a number of other variables. Before you start your install, test peeling and sticking one of your planks to the subfloor. If it’s having trouble sticking, you might need to prime your subfloor first. A latex floor primer will do the job and once primed, you can start installing planks right away, just give it a little under an hour to dry first.

PAINTED SUBFLOOR

When installing over a painted subfloor we recommend the paint be fully adhered. If the paint is peeling, the paint should be removed and proper floor preparation should take place. The paint should also be checked to make sure that it is not toxic. A 24 hour adhesive bond test should be conducted to assure an adequate bond. Should the bond test fail, the paint surface should be sanded in order for the adhesive to adhere properly.

Go for it! 

  • Make sure your floor is clean, flat and dry before installing 
  • Start your install in the middle of the room
  • Don't worry about the peel and stick backing leaving any residue on hard surface floors below
  • Vacuum after you finish installing (no, the planks won’t come up!)
  • Keep a few extra left over planks on hand in case you need to replace a planks
  • Use Replacement Stickers to add a little extra “stick” to cut pieces or after peeling up and cleaning a plank
  • Use Easy Edge to give your Floorigami rug a finished look

Hold up...

  • Floorigami cannot be installed over carpet or pad
  • Cut Floorigami from the front (fuzzy side) of the plank 
  • Don't submerge planks in water (Floorigami prefers showers over baths!)
  • Avoid installing Floorigami on stairs (we know, it's tempting!)

While starting your installing in the corner of your room feels like the natural place to start, but the Floorigami experts at Shaw Floors have tested this process in small spaces, large spaces and everything in between, and we’ve found starting in the corner leaves more room for error when you reach the end of your install. Planks can become unevenly spaced, and sometimes you’re left with a weird gap along a wall. We want to make sure your new Floorigami floor is picture perfect, so we’ve worked hard to refine our instructions to do just that. Starting in the center allows you to first measure your space so you don’t end up cutting every plank at the end of your room to fit. Starting in the center and installing half of the room first provides you with multiple alignment points at all times, to ensure those lines are straight. Our biggest tip here is to lay out your entire Floorigami floor first, whether that’s a wall-to-wall room or an area rug, before you start to peel and stick.


UNFINISHED WOOD SUBFLOOR

Every subfloor is unique. Some make it easy for Floorigami planks to stick and some make it more difficult. It depends on the age of the subfloor, the pad that was under the carpet and a number of other variables. Before you start your install, test peeling and sticking one of your planks to the subfloor. If it’s having trouble sticking, you might need to prime your subfloor first. A latex floor primer will do the job and once primed, you can start installing planks right away, just give it a little under an hour to dry first.

PAINTED SUBFLOOR

When installing over a painted subfloor we recommend the paint be fully adhered. If the paint is peeling, the paint should be removed and proper floor preparation should take place. The paint should also be checked to make sure that it is not toxic. A 24 hour adhesive bond test should be conducted to assure an adequate bond. Should the bond test fail, the paint surface should be sanded in order for the adhesive to adhere properly.

How do I hide the seams a little more?

Some Floorigami styles are designed to slightly show the seams, but for those plush styles, all you need is a screwdriver. Once your planks are down, simply lift the edges of the two adjacent planks by placing a screwdriver under the seam and then pull the fibers up as you run the screwdriver down the seam. Just be cautious of the screwdriver making contact with your hard surface below so you don’t cause any damage. Another simple thing to do is vacuum the entire room. This lifts the fibers and helps blend those areas where the planks meet.

UNFINISHED WOOD SUBFLOOR

Every subfloor is unique. Some make it easy for Floorigami planks to stick and some make it more difficult. It depends on the age of the subfloor, the pad that was under the carpet and a number of other variables. Before you start your install, test peeling and sticking one of your planks to the subfloor. If it’s having trouble sticking, you might need to prime your subfloor first. A latex floor primer will do the job and once primed, you can start installing planks right away, just give it a little under an hour to dry first.

PAINTED SUBFLOOR

When installing over a painted subfloor we recommend the paint be fully adhered. If the paint is peeling, the paint should be removed and proper floor preparation should take place. The paint should also be checked to make sure that it is not toxic. A 24 hour adhesive bond test should be conducted to assure an adequate bond. Should the bond test fail, the paint surface should be sanded in order for the adhesive to adhere properly.

Some Floorigami styles are designed to slightly show the seams, but for those plush styles, all you need is a screwdriver. Once your planks are down, simply lift the edges of the two adjacent planks by placing a screwdriver under the seam and then pull the fibers up as you run the screwdriver down the seam. Just be cautious of the screwdriver making contact with your hard surface below so you don’t cause any damage. Another simple thing to do is vacuum the entire room. This lifts the fibers and helps blend those areas where the planks meet.

How do I make sure a plank fits perfectly after removing or replacing it?

When it’s time to peel up a plank to either clean or replace it, just keep in mind the direction of the arrows from your original install and ensure you place the plank back with arrows going the same direction. Depending on the plank type, it might be a snug fit to place the plank back in place. Simply peel back the edges of the adjacent planks as you slide the new plank back in place for a perfect fit.

How do I make a tricky cut?

CUTTING AROUND A VENT

Remove the vent plate and place the plank, fuzzy side up, over the open vent. Once the plank is in position and lined up with the adjacent planks, cut through the vent with your carpet knife. It can be a little smaller than the actual vent opening. Your vent plate will help hide any imperfections.

CUTTING AROUND A CORNER

When it’s time to cut up against the corner, flip your plank over, fuzzy side down, toward the floor. Mark your plank just like you would up against the wall. Use your carpet knife to mark where the plank needs to be cut, then cut from the back.

When it’s time to peel up a plank to either clean or replace it, just keep in mind the direction of the arrows from your original install and ensure you place the plank back with arrows going the same direction. Depending on the plank type, it might be a snug fit to place the plank back in place. Simply peel back the edges of the adjacent planks as you slide the new plank back in place for a perfect fit.

CUTTING AROUND A VENT

Remove the vent plate and place the plank, fuzzy side up, over the open vent. Once the plank is in position and lined up with the adjacent planks, cut through the vent with your carpet knife. It can be a little smaller than the actual vent opening. Your vent plate will help hide any imperfections.

CUTTING AROUND A CORNER

When it’s time to cut up against the corner, flip your plank over, fuzzy side down, toward the floor. Mark your plank just like you would up against the wall. Use your carpet knife to mark where the plank needs to be cut, then cut from the back.

Some Floorigami styles are designed to slightly show the seams, but for those plush styles, all you need is a screwdriver. Once your planks are down, simply lift the edges of the two adjacent planks by placing a screwdriver under the seam and then pull the fibers up as you run the screwdriver down the seam. Just be cautious of the screwdriver making contact with your hard surface below so you don’t cause any damage. Another simple thing to do is vacuum the entire room. This lifts the fibers and helps blend those areas where the planks meet.

When it’s time to peel up a plank to either clean or replace it, just keep in mind the direction of the arrows from your original install and ensure you place the plank back with arrows going the same direction. Depending on the plank type, it might be a snug fit to place the plank back in place. Simply peel back the edges of the adjacent planks as you slide the new plank back in place for a perfect fit.

CUTTING AROUND A VENT

Remove the vent plate and place the plank, fuzzy side up, over the open vent. Once the plank is in position and lined up with the adjacent planks, cut through the vent with your carpet knife. It can be a little smaller than the actual vent opening. Your vent plate will help hide any imperfections.

CUTTING AROUND A CORNER

When it’s time to cut up against the corner, flip your plank over, fuzzy side down, toward the floor. Mark your plank just like you would up against the wall. Use your carpet knife to mark where the plank needs to be cut, then cut from the back.

Still Stuck?

Call us and speak with a Floorigami expert at
1-833-243-7429